it
crawls on. I brush it aside.
The next
day, January 10, we were off on a bus ride to our next destination. On the way, we stopped at an
estancia, a ranch on which sheep are raised. We witnessed a sheep-shearing; it
was interesting, but things were hardly as bucolic as depicted in the sheep-shearing
festival in the third act of Shakespeare’s Tempest. After the poor thing was
sheared, it reminded me of an enlarged photo of a newborn hamster. At least
they didn’t kill it!—which, by the way, they more than sometimes do.
A few
hours later, we reached Puerto Natalis, a rather unimpressive little town whose
claim to fame is its proximity to the Torres del Paine National Park, which we
visited in the afternoon.
Visiting
the park was another unforgettable experience. Its large area contains many lakes,
each a different color depending on the source of the water and the type of
algae present. Wildlife was fairly abundant. The central attraction of the
park is the towering peaks of Los Cuernos del Paine. Its base is ancient, but
the peak is only about 12 million years old, barely out of the toddler stage of
a mountain’s lifespan. (The Andes are 80 million years old). The huge granite
slabs, carved by glaciers into their present form, reminded me of Titan-sized
versions of the stone tablets of the Decalogue.
I stood
in awe before them. Standing before this majestic scene, one is aware of what
Longinus had in mind when he wrote his famous treatise over two thousand years
ago: the only appropriate word for such experiences is, indeed, sublime.
After I
“came down” from the heights, I thought, curiously, of Saint Bernard—at least I
think it was Saint Bernard. I remember reading about a saint who had to be led
across the Alps by an assistant. He kept his eyes closed—he didn’t want the
grandeur of the outer world to challenge the grandeur of his inner world, the
world of God. Odd. My Möbius mind informed me that the inner and outer must be
kept wisely in balance, since they are actually one and the same. Love of the
world, properly understood, not only doesn’t distract us from love of fellow
human beings, it increases our resolve to do better.
Saint
Bernard
He dealt
in mirages, metaphors,
imaginary things, miracles;
his mind
painted faces on stones.
He
ignored what was under his nose,
so he
crossed the Alps with his eyes closed.
Otherwise
he’d be distracted; otherwise, he’d see.
(Coirón,
crabgrass, dandelions,
vetches,
clover and a yellow rose)
Wherever
we look, whatever we see,
(their
spirit full fills me, not his)
inside
and outside encompasses all—
(Mind’s
eyebrows are cirrus clouds;
mind’s
cheeks are giant red stars)—
Why do
we suffer? Why are we here?
God
passes God nectar and laughs.
The next
day consisted mainly of a very long bus ride to El Carafate, a town in
Argentina. As we passed the Argentine border, we stopped at a shrine of an
Argentine (sort-of) saint, El Gauchito Gil. He was apparently an Argentine Robin
Hood, a champion of the common folk, for which he was executed. Miracles
allegedly followed, and still follow. Jorge gave each one of us a card with a drawing of Gil on one side, and a request for intercession on the back. Here is the prayer on the back of the glossy, wallet-sized card:
¡OH! GAUCHITO GIL
Te ruego humildemente
se
cumpla por intermedio
ante
Dios, el milagro
que te pido; y te prometa
que cumpliré mi promessa,
brindándote mi fiel
agradecimiento y
demostación de Fe,
en Dios y en vos,
GAUCHITO GIL
Amén
The
offerings at the shrine consisted mainly of
cans of beer, apparently typical offerings for this folksy saint.
I like to
watch news in Spanish when I am in Baltimore. The half hour Noticias is
followed by a silly telenovela entitled La Rosa de Guadalupe. It depicts young
people who get themselves into desperate circumstances—usually, you guessed it,
through inappropriate sexual encounters. When all hope is apparently lost, a
white rose descends, accompanied by a
tinsely shower and tinsely music. Thus begins the intervention of the
diva ex machina, the Virgin of Guadalupe, who will resolve whatever mess the
hapless young folk have gotten themselves into, all in time for the final
commercial. Why not make an offshoot of this nonsense, a telenovela called La
Cerveza de Gauchito Gil? Instead of a rose, cans of beer would fall into the
hands of the afflicted. And if Gauchito Gil failed to deliver, at least they’d
be able to drown out their sorrows before the final commercial.
OK, let’s
get serious. While riding on the bus, I stared at the endless fields of
coirón, the pale yellow grass of the Patagonian steppe; breaking the monotony
of the grass were many carafate bushes. I was spotting wildlife—guanacos,
flamingos, condors and, of course, sheep. I saw in the distance some creature or other and
turned to my wife, who, as I discovered, was asleep on the seat beside me. Her
mouth was half-open and her eyes, eerily, were slightly open as well. For
a moment she seemed to be dead, thus anticipating the most traumatic event of my
life, if I’m not lucky enough to go first. (The major theme of poets is said to
be love and death, which I have found out to be quite true).
For my dear
and mortal wife
I don’t
mind dying (O yes you do)
but
hers—I couldn’t bear it!
(True)--Why
am I soft as a doughnut?
Why is
faith thin as a robin egg’s shell?
Not that
I envy a boulder’s palm
whose
handshake I’ll feel soon enough.
Pale-yellow
grass on an Argentine pampa
I’d be;
beneath the surface of Enceladus,
frozen
slush I’d be without her—Once
the marriage
bed is empty, what cover
shall
warm me this side of cremation,
what
melts metaphorical snow?
What
melts metaphorical snow? Figuring this out is one of the major problems of life,
no? Well, Nirmala awoke and I was back in the middle of life. As we rode along,
another poem came to me, a Buddhist poem. Contrary to what people think, Buddha
didn’t recommend that one should eliminate all desires, just egotistic desire,
cravings characterized by the three impediments to wisdom, namely, greed, hate
and delusion. It is folly not to accept life as it is; to demand from it more
than it is able to give. Even worse is the folly of demanding that we be
something which we are not. This is the
subject of the following little poem. (Note “Nothing” refers to “Sunyatta” the
void in which pure consciousness abides, the source of wisdom and peace).
“Enough
isn’t enough”—this is desire.
I must be enough—desire again.
Nothing!
Nothing! Nothing! Nothing!
Enough--the
fulfillment of Zen.
A bit
tired from the bus trip, we finally arrived at El Carafate. Of the three towns
we visited in Patagonia, this one is the most lively, largely due to tourism.
We had a good vegetarian meal at a restaurant called Pura Vida.
The next
day we visited the largest national park of Argentina, El Parque Nacional de los
Glacieres. The park contains two large lakes, Lake Argentino and Lake Lake
Viedma. We stopped at Lake Argentino, surrounded by subpolar forests,
mountains and inhabited by an abundance of wildlife. A bit later we arrived at
the southern face of Lake Argentino, which affords spectacular views of the
Perito Moreno Glacier. The height of the glacier is much less than the height
of the glaciers we saw in Alaska: it rises only about 200 ft, and, we were
told, extends about 500 ft below the surface of the lake. What really impresses is the
size of the glacier; seen from above, it extends to the horizon as far as the eye can see,
Suddenly,
my mind’s eye saw rows of the terracotta soldiers which compose the
posthumous army of the third century B.C.E. Chinese emperor, Qin Shi Huang, the
first emperor of China. Looking down from a balcony from the Xian museum which
houses the sculptures, one is impressed by long rows of this clay army,
which extends into the distance in much the same way as the glacier, albeit on
a much smaller scale. Perhaps the icy irregularities at the top of the glacier
reminded me of the soldiers’ helmets. I soon wrote the following haiku:
The
Perito Moreno Glacier
Frozen
in attention,
white-capped
Xian solders—One faints;
distant
sounds of thunder
Soon we
were on a plane again, this time to Buenas Aires, a fascinating city, where we spent two nights. After that,
many in our group flew back home. Not us: Nirmala and I, along with several
others, booked an extension to Iguazú Falls, which proved to be a wise choice.
On the two hour flight to Iguazú Falls, which is located near the borders of
Brazil and of Paraguay, we experienced some turbulence, which led me to write
the following poem:
Turbulence
We
gallop through clouds—Suddenly,
Pegasus
bucks—We rise, we fall;
no
getting off this obstreperous steed
until we
reach Iguazú Falls.
Whoa,
Bronco, whoa! Coward’s no cowboy;
panic
has no reins to quiet giddy hooves—
Buck on.
Doubt turned green professes still-
things
unseen: Faith still believes in Ground!
Ground
did indeed arrive an hour later. We were now in a subtropical time zone; it
was humid, it was hot. Shortly after our arrival, we took a little walking tour
through some jungle, which proved to be an excellent way to muddy up our
shoes.
The
Falls, which we visited the following day provided yet another unforgettable experience. Yes,
it was sublime, but it was also cosmic: I think that there are few spots on
Earth where one comes into such close contact with the raw power of nature.
We took a
little train ride to the beginning of a suspended walkway which led to
the falls. The panoramic views from the walkway were nothing short of
astounding. As we approached the falls,
we all became Keats’s Cortez, as it were, “silent before a peak in Darien”.
Nature
can be very small. For instance, there are about 1 x 1023
molecules in a
teaspoon of water. How many trillions more in the human body, a large
proportion of which consists of water! The amount of water molecules in the
churning mass before us—a truly unfathomable amount!
I felt
as if I had been surrounded by unearthly forces of truly cosmic proportion. The
people on the walkway became, as it were, tiny (relatively speaking) stars
trying to assert themselves in the Large Magellanic Cloud, a galaxy many light-years away from Earth.
The
majestic Falls, however, became the source of the silliest poem I wrote on the
journey, a poem of comic exaggeration:
Iguazú Falls
Pace,
Lewis Carroll
If seven
drunks with seven jugs
swigged
for seven years,
ya think
they’d ever drink it up?
They would if it were beer
The
Falls gave rise to one of my more serious poems as well. At the site of a churning
immensity called The Devil’s Throat—we were just a few feet away from the
gurgling abyss—our local guide, Chino, informed us that if
anyone leaped into the water at this point, there would be no chance of survival. I asked him
how often this occurs—A few times a year, he told me.
How sad.
Suicide visited my family on one occasion; I know more than a bit about its devastating
impact on the living. As a physician, I
also came into contact with several desperate patients during my long career. A
healthy life, as mentioned previously, is a balance between the mind and what
the mind sees. When one is locked in an inner world full of demons, the psychic pain can be almost unbearable.
The
healthy way to transcend the cravings of the ego is through acts of loving
kindness and insight into the interconnectedness of all things. I thought of
the lines by the Tang-dynasty poet, Li Po: We sit together, the mountain and
me,/Until only the mountain remains.
The path
of love and wisdom, as everyone of us knows, isn’t easy. Suicide, which is most
often impulsive, is the easy—tragically easy-- way to leave the cravings of the ego
behind—(No criticism of those who commit suicide implied! Mental illness is a
disease, not a fault).
So many
words to introduce a haiku I wrote after experiencing The Iguazú Falls!
Suicide,
Iguazú Falls
What an
easy way to
become
one with the entire world!
My way
is harder
We have
thus come to an end of this inward-outward journey through Chile and Argentina.
Comments welcome!
Thanks
to Go Ahead Tours for arranging this trip; thanks to Jorge Monferini, our
excellent cicerone; thanks goes to our fellow travelers and to all
readers of this account as well!
Dorsett is a retired pediatrician and a widely published poet.